treats

Last night I had goat’s head soup.

Everyone has their “school” where they go for what, in their opinion, is the best version in town. Yahiya and Judith took a couple of us to a part of town we hadn’t been to in the past week, and one that I never would have expected to exist. Because Kano is predominantly Muslim and under Sharia law, alcohol is either not available or illegally sold, usually in restaurants and hotels. Judith told us of a time when a previous governor walked into a hotel with a group of thugs and smashed all the beer bottles they had.

Most if not all the restaurants we’ve visited in the past week have been in the hotel district and serve beer, and most were more or less what you would expect of a restaurant anywhere (except one Chinese place served Cow Penis Soup, not really sure how that is possible or what it really is, but there you have it).

But last night we ended up in an area that has an unspoken rule of freedom to consume alcohol and have a good time. Beer gardens lined the streets and people, cars, and bikes were everywhere. This area brings in a lot of money and its off limits to police intervention. We sat around a small outdoor table with crowd of other groups around us transfixed on the final EuroCup game playing on a few small, old TVs. We ordered our beers (Gulder is Nigerian) and waited for our meals. Behind us a women smashed the cooked goat heads into small pieces before they were spiced and and made into a stew like dish. Apparently she is there every night, and her skill and smashing makes this “school” the best.

Luckily, it was dark out with little lights around us, so I couldn’t exactly see what was in front of me, but an entire (small) head was there every part, in little pieces mixed up in a spicy sauce. Of course you eat it all with your hands. So, I picked it up part by part, unaware of what it was exactly (but you could sort of guess by how chewy and how much cartilage was in each bite).

….I liked it! The taste wasn’t outrageously different than anything I’ve had before, and I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of an intelligible animal head that was sitting in front of me. YZ apparently has his own school, so I’ll definitely ask him to take me so I can compare and choose my own “place”.  It was really the entire experience that made it enjoyable, though. Everything is so ironic and contradictory here. There is so much rules and religion, but at the same time, so much chaos and freedom. I feel lucky that I have local connections here that can show me places that I doubt many tourists visit, not that Kano is much of tourist destination.

Until next time….

“are you egyptian?”

Let’s all take a second and laugh at my last post. This is what happens when you are dead tired, the internet sucks so you have to keep stopping and starting, copying and pasting from word to gmail and back, and are overwhelmed with everything that had happened in the last two days. Sorry it was so incoherant, but this one probably won’t be much better…. but I did meet the Emir of the state of Katsina….he’s kind of a big deal. So that has to count for something.

I also visited a very rural village near the Emir. It was surreal. I really wish we could have spent longer there. We were escorted by their local traditional ruler who received training from LDM, part of IIE who does leadership training for people in the field of reproductive health and rights. Before, he didn’t believe in AIDS. Now, the village has its own ambulance, a clinic with someone attendant 24 hrs, and they are currently building a a small maternal health center. I’m not really sure whether or not they have enough trained professionals to work there, but the point is that the community is coming together to make maternal and reproductive health a priority in their village, with the blessing and financial support of their leader. Before, if a woman had birth complications the best that they could do was put her on a donkey and take her to the nearest village. The chances of her or her baby surviving that are slim to none.

In addition, the state government is funding a huge modern maternal and early childhood health care center in the city. It was currently under construction, and they said it would be ready in a month. We toured the site, and it looks obvious that it won’t be ready by then. Some of the LDM leaders there were concerned that there would not be enough trained professionals. There is a lot of uncertainty with projects like this, but it is a really important first step.

Today I finally had the opportunity to see the CITAD offices, where I will spend the majority of my time this summer. They do trainings on computer software and hardware in their own computer lab, with satellite internet, which is very impressive. We were a bit confused after the meeting because after looking at their publications, it seems that they (their staff) wanted training in the skills that they have already taught in the community? We aren’t really sure how this can be, and want to look at their training materials to find out. I was impressed that they have a position for a Gender Officer, specifically concerned with issues of women and technology. I can’t wait to speak with her more about the work that she does.

This will be a difficult summer for me because 1) I may be a bit out of my league in terms of the technical knowledge I can bring to the table and 2) Many of the major issues facing these NGOs are a reflection of the poor infrastructure in Nigeria, not necessarily something that someone like me can address. How do you run a successful NGO (or any kind of business for that matter) based on IT when power supply is cut off multiple times throughout the day? It is SO expensive here to get an internet service provider as well as to power the offices and computers since generators are constantly running.

Food. Lot’s of it. I feel like I’ve spent 50% of my time eating. Mostly its been Indian, Lebanese, and Chinese. AND ITS GOOD. Definitely eating better here than I was in Santa Cruz. Haven’t really have any authentic Nigerian, although I did try a Nigerian beer. They serve alcohol at some hotels and restaurants, but only those that can afford to pay off the police.

These meals and the entire conference I’m getting to (kind of) be a part of is coordinated by DRPC, which is a reproductive health (RH) advocacy group here and is funded by LDM. They are hosting a meeting of all the country managers for LDM which includes the Philippines, India, Pakistan, Ethiopia, and Nigeria. They all basically connect LDM funds to worthy local leaders so that they can recieve leadership trainings all around the world (and as you can tell from the example I gave above, it seems to really work). Now the managers are working on networking their local leaders and creating a community that can take action on a wider scale. I’m really in awe of all these people I’m around, they all are incredibly educated and experienced and I can’t help but feel very out of place. But I’m learning SO much from all the conversation and places we have gone so far. It reminds me of all the travel, learning, and people I need to experience in my life and it makes me confident that I am in the right place..

I’m pretty pampered here at the Tahir Guest Palace and I should appreciate it while I can, but I’m sort of anxious to really get out into the town, buy my own food, etc. They are all scary thoughts but it’s going to have to happen within the next week and a half, and I need to break the ice sooner rather than later.

Also, if you want to call me (yay!), my cell phone number is 0803 049 0745. I don’t know how you get connected to Nigeria or the best calling card to use, but if somone successfully figures it out, please e-mail me so I can share it. The best time to call me is after 9:30 pm Kano time, which is 1:30pm in California.

Sai an jima,

Scott

So, it’s been really difficult to write anything thus far because 1) I’ve been really busy…if I ever thought this would be a fun adventure/vacation I was wrong, this is an internship in every respect with no designated working hours and way too much to do. Paul Lubeck, my faculty advisor who sent me out here, wanted a detailed update on things, so I’ll put my REALLy long e-mail below incase you are interested.

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Paul, I tried to write you earlier today but the internet crapped out, below is what I wrote. In summary, I am HAPPY right now but I am very nervous. Nervous about feeling confident in knowing enough to GIVE knowledge here and nervous that people may not accept me. But it is only day two, so I recognize that these feelings are probably typical and I can work through them. I can’t believe its only been two days out of what, something like 80?
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Barka da asuba Paul!One important thing: At the airport,  I told them that I was actually staying for three months and which point they didn’t seem very happy, and asked to see my letter of invite. I forgot to print it out, and told them that it was from YZ Yau, from CITAD, and that I had submitted it to get my VISA. A man changed it to the 5th of August and told me to go to the nearest immigration office to where I am staying to get it extended if I want. I’m thinking I’ll do that once I’m settled at Mambayya House. Maybe I could have handled this situation better but to be honest it was around 11:00pm and I was scared and overwhelmed to be at the airport, especially after Eugene had a run in at our layover in Abuja where a security officer tried to grab a camera out of his hand forcefully, and made him follow him to another room (that all turned out OK though).Adam told me that you would like me to e-mail you my impressions. Here is a novella for you:

It feels like I’ve been here for a week, but it has only been a day and a half. That time has been very busy, meeting everyone, eating, eating, eating, meeting everyone, driving around town, and eating (it feels like I’ve done a lot of eating if you haven’t already noticed).You were right, there really isn’t words to describe this place or how I feel being here. The town is dirtier and more hectic than I imagined that it would be, I’m sure there are quieter parts of Kano but I haven’t seen them yet!Today Christopher (from DRPC) took Adam, Eugene and I around town to visit a few different organizations. I was very nervous and stressed because 1) we didn’t know we would be doing this until the night before 2) I had never done a technology assessment or had a business-like meeting with a Nigerian org before. I think everything turned out fine though.

The first org was CHR, the community health and research initiative and we met with Dr. Aminu Magashi Garba. He gave us a report that he made and I look forward to reading it. It seems that his needs are pretty advanced. One general trend that I have noticed is that many organizations outsource their technology needs, including data analysis. In the case of website management and hosting, they get taken advantage of and spend a lot of money on something that they can probably do themselves.The second org was the Centre for Human Rights in Islam which was part of a larger umbrella organization of NGOs in Kano who are also very concerned with issues of Budget transparency and hope to create greater social consciousness towards government budgets. I REALLY liked hearing from them. They have a very spacious building, each room has a nice computer still covered in its plastic…they have no power and no way to connect it to the internet, yet. Thanks to the EU, who donated them. How can they afford to give new dell computers but no proper ethernet cord, or a basic accounting software package? They hope to create an IT center soon, one where members of their coalition can come and take classes as well as utilize the technology. I really loved their attention to gender issues there, both on the micro and macro level. A women was sitting at our table with us who came in the middle of the introductions session. Halfway into our discussion, they became very embarrassed that as an org that promotes gender equality they had not yet introduced her as their computer specialist. Upstairs they gave us some posters and pamphlets that they produced. I really hope that we can find a way to work with them this summer. They were very encouraging and excited to collaborate. They are apparently very close in distance to CITAD.

We also went to the British consulate. Wow! After visiting these offices that were really different from anything you would see in the US, it was odd to see such a comfortable, modern place. They have a very large computer lab, and for 500N you can spend the day there, watching news on the big tv, reading books, or surfing the web. Christopher said that he sometimes spends 1000N to go to Friends internet cafe which is not as nice. They do computer trainings twice a month. It would be great to draw upon their experience and knowledge but do we really want to work with the British gov? Weird

All in all, it is incredible the diversity in knowledge, experience, and applications of social enterprise within the city. The only common ground is that everyone knows Y.Z! Hah.It has been difficult connecting with Cheryl and Judith because they are very busy working with the LDM country leaders this week. Hopefully I will have an opportunity to get to know them better (and vice versa) sometime this week. My biggest fear at the moment is that they will not think my presence here is legitimate. We went to the prince hotel tonight for dinner, and it was great to have a lively conversation with everyone that included some risque topics like the red light district in netherlands, nude beaches, and sex workers. I don’t think I’ll be offending anyone.

Tomorrow we are going on our day trip to Katsina. Christopher and everyone briefed us on the dress code and the reality that they do not always like to see white faces there, as they expect us to be selling Christianity. I’m looking forward to the car ride so I can see some more of the country.My biggest surprise thusfar is my calm attitude when I am in a car, with no seatbelt, driving around town. The streets are INSANE but the drivers are obviously very skilled at getting places fast on roads with no rules and an outrageous amount of motas, baburs, kekes, etc. I just recognize that I have no control in the situation and that people do this everyday. Makes me laugh at the thought of beings stressed on Hwy 17.

Kudos to you if you read the whole thing and I’ll talk to you soon, sai an juma

Scott

if you were going to Nigeria for three months….

….would you bring a lot or a little? I recognize that less is more for most travel, but I’m going to a place where most things I’m accustomed to having just a quick stop at the store away and I’m afraid I’ll grossly underestimate my need for clothes, books, toiletries, etc. I’ll be living in the one of the largest cities in one of the most populated countries in the world, yet, I can’t quite put my finger on what it will be like and what kind of resources will be available to me when I get there. It’s going to be a crazy first couple of weeks.

I’m on draft two of the packing process right now. I’ve recognized that I likely will not need the pea coat, or hangers. In addition, it was recommended that I bring candy as a gift for children but I probably don’t need the two huge boxes that I got at Costco. Good thinking Scott.

I just need to recognize that I’ve never done this before and it probably doesn’t matter if I miraculously stuff my things in one tiny suitcase or bring two large ones (my current plan), it will be awkward and I’ll likely be embarrassed.

Aaak. I just need to be in Nigeria so I can finally stop thinking about going.

one more week!

Today I checked outside my front door and lo and behold….my VISA was there! I now have the holy trinity

1. Tourist Visa

2. Vaccinations with vaccination card

3. Plane ticket

I’ve finished all my classes and now I just need to focus on packing, buying all the things I need (medicine, luggage locks, deet, and much much more) but it should be a little bit easier now that I’ve finished my classes and the FMST newsletter. I also need to go over everything I’ll be teaching! I’m leaving in a week! MAKE IT WORK.